Posted by Climbed in the Cairngorms with Kasia on Saturday. The forecast was pretty wild, with high winds and heavy snow forecast, so we remained flexible.
The walk in was pretty damp with sleet falling on a strong wind from the SW. Many of the routes in Coire an t’Sneachda are pretty buried at the moment but Alladin’s Buttress is holding up ok. However a lot of the climbs are technically much easier than usual but also quite a bit bolder, with gear being particularly hard won.
There were some pockets of wind slab on the approach slopes and care will be needed after all the new snow and wind. We opted to climb Original Summer Route IV, 5 and this gave some good climbing and a little bit of respite from the wind. It also offered a safe abseil descent. Other teams were out on Doctor’s Choice, Patey’s Route, Invernookie and The Seam.
We didn’t manage to climb on Sunday as the ski road was closed due to blizzard conditions. The unsettled weather has made it a frustrating season so far but hopefully it will come good soon. Safe climbing!
Cheers, Kev.
Check these links before you head out:
- MWIS mountain weather
- SAIS avalanche forecasts
- UKC winter logbooks
Climbing Gear Reviews 